Tag: Maryland Craft Beer

Summer Plans

The latest upheavals and successes in the world of Maryland beer. Who is staying? Who is expanding.

Summer is here and things are sizzling! Maryland has seen some drastic shifts in the world of brewing. In a matter of six weeks Guinness announced plans to close the Baltimore Brewery, moving operations to Chicago; Flying Dog sold to FX MATT, closing the Frederick plant; and DuClaw was sold to River Horse, leaving Heavy Seas as the largest (and longest) Maryland independent brewery standing. The dominoes falling for the three of the state’s largest producers certainly was not welcome news for most, but there was quite a bit of good to glean from the industry as well.

Let us begin with Guinness, the shutting down of brewing operations in Baltimore does not come as a great surprise. With the announcement of the opening of Guinness Chicago it was pretty easy to read the tea leaves. Sustaining two operational plants in the U.S. on the heels of COVID was not part of the strategy. Although Diageo (parent company of Guinness) beat expectations in January 2023, on the heels of strong sales in Europe where Guinness saw a 71% increase in sales in Ireland, growth in North America was paltry, coming in at 3%. Combined with increased inflationary pressures, Diageo (and thus Guinness) was primed for belt tightening, not expansion. Additionally, it is far easier to distribute nationwide from the Midwest than the East Coast. As a salve for the Guinness Baltimore Blonde fans that recoiled at the thought of the locally crafted favorite shifting production to Illinois, Hugh Sisson, founder of Heavy Seas and merchant of the industry’s growth in the region since 1996, offered to brew the Maryland flag draped Blonde at Heavy Seas. Alas, nothing has yet come of the offer and astute shoppers might have noticed the labeling has conveniently removed the Maryland flag.

A little more than a month after Guinness revealed the closure, Flying Dog announced they were ‘joining forces’ with FX Matt Brewing (AKA Saranac). Uncapped Podcast broke the story May 22, leaving many stunned. A quick reminder – Flying Dog intentionally chose not to reopen the taproom after COVID was no longer a threat. The bottom line was never about selling pints and giving tours, but large scale production. Tea leaves anyone? Yes they will open a taproom and ‘innovation’ brewery (aka small batch experimental) in downtown Frederick while production moves to New York this summer before closing the plant completely. A bit of history here for those that forgot or might not have known Flying Dog was a Colorado based brewery before relocating to Frederick. Much like Guinness, they were a transplant to the Free State. Once they set up shop they absolutely embraced Maryland, from flag and blue crabs to Old Bay, wending their way into the refrigerators of many Maryland natives. We will see if the Maryland themes continue once they have relocated.

On June 1st, news broke that another Maryland brewery had been sold- DuClaw. This time however, it was a Maryland original. From the very first brew pub in Bel Air in 1996, to the Yellow Brick Road production facility in Rosedale, DuClaw has always been a Maryland brewery. Plagued by nagging issues at the production facility limiting tasting room opportunities among other problems, DuClaw was openly looking for a buyer for years before COVID showed up. The solution for Benfield and crew came in the form of River Horse Brewing out of New Jersey. Sweet Baby Jesus- the iconic flagship (yes I recall just how much they revile the term) beer will be brought to life in a new manger a few hours north. A long time ago, Benfield told me in an interview that he hoped the brewery would discontinue Sweet Baby Jesus, as the goal was always to provide new beers that would capture consumer’s attention and palate, usurping the holy porter. That never came to pass despite their best efforts. Even the illustrious and effervescent Unicorn Farts could not topple the king.

On a somber note, True Respite out of Rockville is up for sale as a turn-key brewery for $1.5 million. The O’Leary family (owners) has mentioned that times are extremely difficult for breweries- more than we know and that we all should double down on buying local. The nearly $13k per month rent (usury in my book- but it is Montgomery County) is certainly indicative of the financial challenges breweries face, particularly when they do not own the plant operations are housed within.    

Over the past decade we have witnessed the closure of several breweries in Maryland including Astro Lab, Full Tilt, House Cat, Homaide, Baying Hound Aleworks, Growlers, and more. COVID certainly played a hand and not everyone survives the financial difficulties created by lockdowns. Maryland is nowhere near saturation, and we are well behind most states in breweries per capita according to the Brewer’s Association of America. With the closure of these breweries, our numbers will continue to wane. Craft alcohol laws in the state have reformed, paving the way for new breweries to stand on more solid footing. A cautionary tale remains however for anyone interested in opening a brewery to do their research and talk to those in the industry who have succeeded and critically those who have not. Vital information can be gleaned from those willing to open up the conversations with those who came before.  

Opportunity awaits for those wading into the brewing business, but quality is key and the craft beer consumers are particular. As the number of breweries has grown, buyers are less forgiving of unremarkable brews, thus raising the bar. Negotiating finances like steep rents and excise taxes, inflation and supply chain issues coupled with finding trustworthy, reliable distributors is just as crucial to the success of a brewery as crafting consistently excellent beers. A misstep on any of these can sink even the most sought-after brand.

So what have we lost? Jobs… and beer Guinness, Flying Dog and DuClaw will continue to produce the beers that have lined our fridges for decades. What becomes of the contract brewers that relied on these facilities to produce their Maryland grown brews? We will have to see how this plays out, but the ripple effect of these consolidations might deprive us of the smaller start-ups we were just beginning to discover, and others we have known for quite some time.

There is good news to report however, as we are seeing growth and expansion in our Maryland originals from Heavy Seas to Mully’s to Rockwell to Checkerspot. The Free State has a long history of expansion and contraction when it comes to craft brewing. We are just in the process of dialing it in adn teh summer is going to sizzle!

Sláinte!

Kicking Off 2023

A preview of the positive changes ahead for Maryland’s craft alcohol manufacturers.

There has been a lot happening over the past several months and most of it is really good news for craft alcohol manufacturers in Maryland!

Where to begin? Let us start with Grow and Fortify. This organization has been the backbone of Maryland’s craft alcohol organizations from the Brewer’s Association of Maryland, the Maryland Wineries Association, to the Distiller’s Guild. They have championed a level playing field for craft alcohol manufacturers in the legislature, while steadfastly encouraging value added agriculture in the Free State.  Always embracing the history behind these industries, it is literally their mission…

Cultivating an environment where value-added agricultural producers, startups, operators and growers innovate and thrive.

They grow the organizations & businesses that fortify Maryland’s agricultural heritage while helping them create a sustainable future. This has not gone unnoticed, and the team behind Grow & Fortify has done an amazing job of living up to their mission and keeping their promises. Notably, the organization’s founder and familiar face Kevin Atticks, was appointed Secretary of Agriculture by incoming Governor We Moore. He could not have made a better choice. There is no one in the state more familiar with the issues facing this industry and every business impacted by agriculture than Kevin Atticks. His passion and determination to make sure Maryland does not abandon its agricultural underpinnings, while finding new ways to foment the growth of this industry in innovative and truly exciting new ways in unparalleled. He will leave an indelible mark on the state’s history and help push Maryland to the forefront, moving beyond the obstacles, entrenchment and inaction that has so often plagued the department and stymied the growth of the industry.

His successor, Janna Howley is most capable, and a brilliant choice to skillfully lead Grow & Fortify for many years to come. Prioritizing the industries we literally cannot live without, and fighting for their symbiotic partners, our farmers and craft alcohol manufacturers will thrive under Howley’s tenure.

Other news that is brewing includes the impending move of Checkerspot Brewing from the Sharp Street location across Russell Street to 1421 Ridgely.  They will continue to serve the pre- and post-game crowds that flock regularly throughout the year for Ravens and Orioles games. The new facility, a former printing business, is vastly larger at 24,000 sf to accommodate growth, and an expansive the tap room with open seating. Coupled with the 2023 move, brewery owners Rob and Judy Neff took top honors in the 11th annual Sam Adams Building the American Dream Challenge. Checkerspot was not only crowned at the GABF in Colorado this past fall, they will collaborate with Jim Koch’s team this March on a beer using local Maryland malt from Brad Humbert’s Bear Branch Malt, formerly Dark Cloud. They also receive mentoring and financial support, which could not have come at a better time for the brewery, as the deft guidance has already paid off via architectural planning and equipment.

1427 Ridgely

You may wonder what will become of the former Checkerspot location. Owner Sam Himmelrich is purchasing the brewery “as is” including all equipment, hoping to lure a new team to begin brewing in the facility in 2023.  There may be plenty of interest from aspiring brewery owners to assume control of the turn-key facility. Be on the lookout for more minority, women and Veteran brewers throwing their hats into the ring as Maryland is poised for growth in this regard with the newly elected leaders vowing to provide greater opportunity and  structural support for the these entrepreneurs.  

Despite the trials of the pandemic, soaring inflation and recessionary pressures along with continued supply chain issues, Maryland still has the driving undercurrent of increasing brewery offerings in the state. Take a look at the breweries in planning. Watch for announcements here and from the Brewers Association about the progress these fearless entrepreneurs are making.

Nationally, independent craft breweries have seen a nearly 8% rise in sales (nearly 25 million bbls) with total breweries topping 9200!  This is encouraging despite the number of breweries that closed during the pandemic, we are on the rise. In Maryland there are more than 120 breweries, ranking 24th in the nation. The $917 million annual economic impact is nothing to sneeze at, but honestly we can do better and I know our talented, motivated Maryland brewers are up to the challenge!

Stay tuned for upcoming events surrounding the March 2023 Women in Beer collaborations!

Sláinte

Prospect Point Farm Brewery

A new Frederick farm brewery has opened, Prospect Point. It is a site to behold, and a beer to be shared!

Welcoming a new brewery into Maryland is always a joy. I must say the opening of Prospect Point was particularly delightful due to the delays the family faced trying to open their doors to the public. On Friday May 20, 2022, the Carroll family welcomed dignitaries and guests to their grand opening/ribbon cutting ceremony and it was a terrific success.

Prospect Point farm brewery is situated just outside of Frederick with picturesque views of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The inviting foothills and hop fields surround visitors with a tantalizing breeze and spacious outdoor seating for 500. The taproom’s tall tin celling, industrial imagery and copious tables provide another appealing venue for craft beer lovers to sample the offerings.

The road to this well planned and executed brewery was long in coming. Somewhere around 2014+- I was working on the Beer in Maryland book and searching through ProBrewer for something I can no longer recall, when I came across Dan Carroll’s post asking for insights into opening a nano-brewery on his hop farm. The Carroll family owns Pleasant Valley Hop Farm.  I was quite excited to see another Farm brewery in Frederick open, particularly on the south side of town.

Fortunately, Dan and his father had a veteran farm brewer on their side- Tom Barse of Milkhouse Brewery at Stillpoint Farm. He offered stout guidance and the concept eventually formulated into a plan. Unfortunately, COVID reared its spiky little head and delayed the project. As a non-essential business, permits were put on terminal hold, and once those were finally granted, supply chain and labor shortage issues wrecked its own special havoc. Fast forward to May 20, 2022, and you realize it was worth the protracted wait, making it all the sweeter for the Mike, Dan, Nick and their family!

The brewery houses a 10 bbl brewhouse and four 10 bbl fermenters. There is plenty of room for expansion and that is the goal. The beer is solid and well-received by the patrons. The pilsner was bright and clean, the hazy offered a nuanced citrus that was enchanting, balanced and easily drinkable -perhaps too much so!

I suggest a road trip- and don’t forget the kids and the dogs, as they are welcome to this family friendly venue. Food trucks are on site on weekends, and there is ample parking. Visit their Facebook page for hours and events!

In more good news, Tom Barse opened at fresh market at Milkhouse Brewery at Stillpoint Farm. When you are headed to the farm for beer, bring a cooler and pick up farm fresh beef, eggs, lamb greens and other delights! It has conveniently become a one stop shop for the freshest of everything!

In other expansion news,  Crooked Crab’s 8,000+ sf expansion is moving right along with floor drains dug and new fermenters delivered. Follow the progress on their Facebook page.  They keep turning out one great beer after another, and with this expansion there will be a lot more to quench your thirst.

Saints Row Brewing has completed their move from Rockville to Gaithersburg this past week. The move provides a larger facility not only for brewing but for the opening of their boutique coffee company, Hallowed Grounds Coffee Co. Hmmm…coffee and beer? I think that is a marriage made in Heaven!

Sláinte

BALTIMORE MAGAZINE: Checkerspot Brewing Revives 200-Year-Old Beer Recipes for Women’s History Month

This weekend, historian Maureen O’Prey joins owner Judy Neff to share the legacy of brewer Mary Eaton.

By Grace Hebron | March 3, 2022, 05:03 pm

Checkerspot’s newest beer uses Mary Eaton’s 200-year-old techniques. —Courtesy of Judy Neff

Author and brewer Mary Eaton took a no-nonsense approach to crafting high-caliber beer. 

“What an amazing human being and what a stickler for quality,” says Maureen O’Prey, historian and author of Beer in Maryland and Brewing in Baltimore. “What a stickler for following her recipe to the letter.

“She felt that any beer that left a hard or a sour or a pungent sensation on your tongue was not good beer. It was pernicious beer. And if you got it from a tavern or an ale house, you would end up with headaches and nausea and all kinds of things that you wouldn’t have had if you were drinking the beer that she was making in her house.”

Eaton held the firm belief that beer was best when made at home—specifically, by women, who unbeknownst to many, had been brewing for millennia around the time her book came out in 1822. In The Cook and Housekeeper’s Complete and Universal Dictionary, Eaton shares a bevy of meticulous recipes for beers with no-fuss names like “good” and “wholesome.” 

“It’s really amazing when you look at what she wrote back in 1822, because the standards she’s demanding are what you would expect at a brewery today,” O’Prey explains. “Without knowing what pH was, she recognized good water from bad water, and how to turn bad water into good water. Everything was sanitized.”

Long before refrigeration, Eaton knew the cooler months of March and October were the most ideal for brewing. And as O’Prey found out herself, her recipes, while laborious and painstakingly detailed, yield an age-defying magic. 

Referencing the aforementioned, 200-year-old book, O’Prey and Judy Neff, the owner of Checkerspot Brewing in South Baltimore, attempted to recreate three of Eaton’s recipes—plus one of their own, a 12.9 percent ABV ale appropriately dubbed “Pernicious Mary.” Per the author’s instructions for brewing, the latter sip sat for two years. But this weekend, the duo’s hard work will pay off when the four “fool-proof” brews hit the Checkerspot taproom.

This Saturday, March 5, in honor of Eaton, and to celebrate the start of Women’s History Month, Neff and O’Prey will host an event aptly dubbed “200 Years in the Making” at the Sharp Street brewery. For $70, VIP ticket holders will receive an exclusive bottle of “Pernicious Mary.” And for $40, Checkerspot guests will have the chance to sample three of Eaton’s fairly mild trademark blends: “Good Beer,” “Agreeable Table Beer,” and “Wholesome Beer” (yes, those are really their names).

From 1-4 p.m., O’Prey will be on site to sign her two books and give two lectures: one about the history of women in beer, and the other about the time she spent with Neff working to master Eaton’s time-held recipes. A portion of proceeds from ticket sales will benefit The Well, a Baltimore nonprofit helping women heal from trauma.

“Maureen is so thorough with all of her research,” says Neff, who looks forward to sharing Eaton’s legacy with Checkerspot. “She’s been passionate about craft beer and history for so long. We’re really lucky to be able to work together—to be a woman brewer and a woman beer historian, which is very rare to find. We make a pretty good team.

“[Too often] you only hear about men opening breweries. So I think it’s kind of cool for people to hear a different side of the story, that there was this woman, 200 years ago brewing beer at home. And she considered her beer the best, better than any guy could make.”

O’Prey agrees: “I think Mary would be proud. It is such an honor to be able to bring this incredible woman’s recipes back, and make them well. Women have always been a part of this beautiful, wonderful art of making beer.”

MEET THE AUTHOR

Grace Hebron is an Editorial Assistant at Baltimore. A graduate of Towson University, and formerly an intern at the aforementioned city glossy, she loves to cover lifestyle and community news. She also writes the Weekend Lineup column.

Hoppy Holidays!

Hop Cones

It is the time of year for gatherings and gratitude, forgiveness and transitions, revelry and redemption. It is after all the holidays!

While we have certainly ushered in the craft beer era in Maryland over the past decade, the joy of a new brewery opening can be bittersweet when mingled with another brewery closing.  COVID-19 had a deleterious impact on many breweries, with their recovery often dependent upon the jurisdiction in which they resided. The suspension of enforcement, coupled with the 2021 legislation allowing many of these courtesies to continue until the end of 2022, mitigated much of the fiscal damage for brewers. Not all however, could persevere. Some were already vexed by non-pandemic related issues and succumbed.

Additionally, NIMBY has taken hold as farm breweries have seen tremendous growth, fomented by a pandemic that embraced social distancing, outdoor gatherings and the warming glow of fire pits. Despite the common sense economic benefit of value added agriculture, Harford County councilmembers pandered to the “not in my backyard mentality,” introducing a moratorium on farm breweries. After 18 months of planning and expense,  AleCraft Brewery was forced to relocate their planned farm brewery, complete with hop farm, biergarten, and gastro pub across the border to Railroad, Pennsylvania. Sadly, they have also chosen to move their primary 5,000 sf, seven barrel production facility to Pennsylvania as well. This is a huge loss for Harford County and Maryland craft beer, but apparently a victory for an irritable neighbor.

With the pandemic in our rear view mirror, it is a blissful season to reacquaint ourselves with beer festivals like the Baltimore Craft Beer Festival in Canton. Over fifty breweries were in attendance to share their tantalizing creations. It was also an opportunity to sample tasty offerings from up and coming breweries like Joyhound Beer and Abbeywood Brewing, while rediscovering some old favorites like Oliver Brewing. This was not the first festival of the year, but definitely the place to be for a vast range of styles from the largest collection of Maryland brewers assembled since COVID struck. Kudos to Abby Cassarella, Jim Bauckman, Kevin Atticks and the whole crew at the Brewer’s Association of Maryland for putting on another exceptional event!

Pub Dog Brewing was in fine form at the festival, showing off a brilliant Vermont style IPA that kept fans wanting more. This was celebratory as friend and owner George Humbert was eager to share how busy he has been now that he re-opened Pub Dog Pizza & Drafthouse in Columbia, nearly two years after the gas explosion that closed the pub. The gourmet pizza is as good as you remember and the beer is sublime. A grateful crowd lined the block in March to welcome Pub Dog back to the neighborhood.

Another anticipated opening, Burnish Beer Company was also met with much fanfare in late October. Randy Mills, former co-owner and brewer at RaR Brewing in Cambridge created a destination in Salisbury that welcomes thirsty beer travelers year round. In addition to the delicious food options, a cocktail and wine menu is available for the folks that may not have come over to the brew side of things just yet. After two years in planning, a global pandemic could not stop Mills on this most welcome endeavor.

Crooked Crab Brewing in Odenton announced they are expanding operations at Telegraph Road. The expansion will be completed in 2022, nearly doubling the size of the brewery to 15,000 sf. Crooked Crab has certainly garnered a vast following with staples like Haze for Daze and seasonal Vespa Werewolf. Craft beer drinkers are excited by the news and intrigued by the possible expanded offerings once the construction is finished.

This heartwarming news is only tempered by the loss of an Eastern Shore brewery- Backshore Brewing (formerly known as Shorebilly), and the legendary Wharf Rat in Fells Point. In a tearful video message, Uncle Nate of Backshore informed patrons that owner Danny Robinson has decided to close the brewery at the end of November 2021. After pivoting to tea-based alcohol production in 2015 for beach goers, Robinson expanded his footprint to several others states including Florida. This closure comes as a surprise to many, although Uncle Nate has promised to try and buy the brand to continue operations on the shore.

Farther north in Baltimore, the Wharf Rat permanently closed on November 6, 2021. It was the founding home of Oliver Brewing before both the brewery and Pratt Street were sold to an outside investor. For more than 30 years the Wharf Rat was Baltimore’s favorite place for locals, overflowing with history. The English ambiance and malty ales transported patrons back to the Age of Sail when English vessels were moored in the harbor and offloading cargo on the docks. The Wharf Rat was sold at auction for nearly one million dollars in October with the buyer remaining anonymous- for now.

In case you missed it, the Pinks Boots Society Greater Maryland Chapter collaborated on a decadent new brew. Tit’s Up is a New England Style India Pale Lager in honor of breast cancer awareness month. This collaboration between Checkerspot Brewing, DuClaw Brewing and TenEyck Brewing Company reminds women to stand strong in the face of adversity. Participating breweries as well as several regional package stores have this consequential brew on shelves now. Don’t miss out!

In other collaboration news, I am thrilled to announce the latest historical collaboration between myself and Judy Neff of Checkerspot. Admiral Buck is launching on Thanksgiving eve! Admiral Buck is a recreation of late 19th century imperial Bock from the brewery of Edward Stiefel. It is aged in barrels provided by USN, Ret. Scott Sanders, Rear Admiral of Tobacco Barn Distillery. Mark your calendars and make a trip to the brewery on November 24th where I will be giving a talk on the full history of the beer and brewing in the 1800’s. Judy and I will be sharing other tantalizing tidbits about upcoming collaborations that you won’t want to miss!  Don’t forget to grab a couple of bottles of Admiral Buck, a once in a lifetime historical brew to share at Thanksgiving!

Sláinte and Happy Holidays!

Beer for thought

Under the Oak

What is in store for craft beer lovers at the new brewery breaking ground in Queen Anne’s County?

Sunday marked the official groundbreaking of a new brewery in Queen Anne’s County- Ten Eyck. The name is familial, drawn from founder and brewmaster Nicki Sener and her father, affectionately known as “Gangster Ten Eyck”. The Ten Eyck family emigrated from the Netherlands during the Colonial era and planted roots throughout what eventually became the United States of America.  Etymologically, it is derived from the Dutch and translated as ‘under the oak’ or ‘lives at the oak’. Charming most certainly, but not the most interesting aspect of this new brewery.

It is the women behind the brewery that provide the most intriguing story behind this venture- veterans and first responders. Nicki Sener is not only the founder but both a veteran and a first responder (law enforcement). Sharon Horgan and Shayne Sewell both served in the Air Force along with Michelle (Mo) and Jennifer Barrett. Jessica Hammond Graf coached women’s rugby at the Naval Academy, while she and her wife Yancy Hammond Graf both played for USA Women’s Rugby. What brought them together? Rugby and craft beer, and a common set of experiences.  It was actually Yancy that first delved into mash tun of homebrewing while playing rugby, and from that point forward it became an integral part of the group dynamic.  Although quite talented, Yancy has since passed the mash paddle off to Nicki, and for good reason,

 “It was easy to believe in the vision of Ten Eyck, because we enjoy the creativity that emanates from this woman.” Yancy Hammond Graf, speaking of founder Nicki Sener.

Nicki’s mash paddle.

If you hadn’t guessed by now, these women are close- they not only support one another, but perhaps more importantly build and invest in each other. They champion strengths while helping buttress the gaps. They are a united front, one that not only understands the magic of teamwork, but the essential role of allowing individual character to shine.

The brewery is situated on a patch of land ideally suited for local patrons and travelers. Ten Eyck is just off of Grange Hall Road and Rte. 213, within spitting distance of Route 50 (Blue Star Memorial Highway or Ocean Gateway- you choose.) The location also happens to be directly across from Chesapeake College and the nearest gas station. Between beach goers and the college crowd, foot traffic should not be a problem for Ten Eyck no matter the time of year.  The 4,244 sf facility will house a 10 bbl system from Oregon, with three 10 bbl bright tanks and a 20 bbl fermenter. Foeders are also in route. For those of you unfamiliar, they were created predominantly for wine although other craft creations from spirits to beer have incorporated these enormous wooden vats in the maturation process. The high liquid to wood ratio provides a perfect environment for the beer to develop, while imparting oak, vanilla, and other mellow characteristics into the alcohol without threat of acidification that is often a product of smaller barrel ageing. The vast height of the vessel allows for greater capacity with a smaller footprint than standard barrels. Lagers and stouts are ideal for Foeders, and if dedicated- can make a particularly sublime sour.

The taproom will have 12 taps of myriad styles. The goal is to offer a little bit of everything to the consumer from lagers, to IPA’s to sours. For the non-beer drinkers they are also crafting both soda and cider. There will not be a full kitchen, so food options include a picnic lunch, or available food trucks. Ten Eyck will have a full bier garden, complete with dog pools for your waggy-tailed quadruped, and perhaps a hitching post for your thoroughbred. They have literally thought of everything!

I have sampled Ten Eyck’s offerings before, but on a 94 degree day filled with bright sun I was curious how my opinion and my palate might be informed. I will begin with the one thing I rarely drink- cider. It was quite perfect for such a warm afternoon. The blueberries and blackberries were all locally grown and handpicked, lending themselves to a lingering and immensely refreshing mouthful of bright, full flavors that would have been lost in mass harvested berries, but were not overpowering.

The Blackberry Rye IPA offered a similar profile in that it was fully flavored, yet impressively balanced between the hop profile and the expected bite of the rye.  My favorite however was the Tail Dragger IPA. This little beauty was named after Hanna, who not surprisingly is a pilot who was gracious enough to actually wear a t-shirt with her plane imprinted upon it. This cunning craft was a merger of Galaxy and Citra hops, producing an IPA that brought forth every nuance of malt underneath the hop profile that was not at all overpowering, but brilliantly complex.

The brewery is slated to open no later than January 2020, although they are hoping for an October debut. This remarkable group of women are building something incredible together…..stay tuned and don’t forget to thank them for their service!

Prost!

Fully Tilted- Finally!

It was Grand Opening Weekend at Full Tilt Brewing, and what a journey it has been to open these doors!

It has been a long time coming, and the day has finally arrived…the day Full Tilt Brewing celebrated the Grand Opening of their very own brewery. The journey has not been an easy one, in fact it would have dissuaded far less persistent souls. Persistent- a word that only just begins to describe Dan Baumiller and Nick Fertig, co-founders of Full Tilt Brewing.

Dan Baumiller and Nick Fertig, co-founders of Full Tilt Brewing

In 2012 the lifelong friends and homebrewers took the plunge into the industry and began contract brewing out of Peabody Heights. The two faced myriad challenges from scheduling difficulties to limits on yeast choices, and an inability to produce anything less than 75 bbl batches, effectively killing their opportunity to produce small batch and seasonal brews. The logical choice was to open their own brewery once they achieved name recognition to support it. This was a wise plan, particularly in a rapidly expanding craft brewing hub like Maryland.  Name recognition in Baltimore came not only from their regular lineup that included Baltimore Pale Ale, Hops the Cat IPA (affectionately named after Fertig’s cat Hops who has since passed on- and yes he has a dog named Barley) and a Memorial Pilsner honoring our nation’s veterans, but a genius endeavor that helped save an iconic Baltimore institution called Berger Cookie. The creation of the Berger Cookie Stout not only helped prevent Berger Cookie from closing its doors- it helped elevate the brand in Baltimore. It was finally time to open their own brewery.

Things would not transpire as planned however. A few false starts-including a potential Towson brewpub delayed their plans for a couple of years. As the saying goes, “good things come to those who wait.” Undeterred, Baumiller and Fertig forged ahead eventually settling on a simply delightful location in the Govans neighborhood of Baltimore on York Road at Bellona Ave in the nearly century old Accelerator Building. The exterior is inviting with massive glass bay doors that will open in summer weather.  The interior is well laid out, and the exposed brick walls with Hops the Cat and other ‘tilted’ frescoes painted upon them provide a comfortable, cool and welcoming ambience for the taproom.

Hops the Cat

The brewery is equipped with a 15 bbl brewhouse, two 30 bbl and two 15 bbl fermenters and cold storage. This will allow for a variety of small batch and one offs that will only be available in the taproom.  At the helm of brewing operations is veteran brewer Brian Smith, formerly of Lancaster, Beltway, DuClaw, Pub Dog and Flying Dog.  The search wasn’t easy as several candidate interviews were conducted in hopes of finding the right balance between talent and temperament.  Smith fit the bill perfectly.  The plan is to produce around 1,000 to 1,500 bbls out of the new brewery while maintaining the contract with Peabody Heights. This allows them to produce strictly small batch special, seasonal, and collaborative brews at the new facility, while leaving the large scale production brews like their Pale Ale at Peabody– embracing the best of both worlds.  This allows for the flexibility they craved but were denied. Now they could quite literally have something new every single week if they chose to. They finally get to work on their own schedule instead of someone else’s and that by itself is liberating.

They have a full beer, wine, and liquor license although they only plan to carry beer. Currently they have a near complete lineup of Full Tilt products on tap including Hops the Cat IPA, Port of Baltimore Baltic Porter, Better Dan Red IPA, Memorial Pils, Govans Blood Orange Gose, and more along with a few guest brews from RaR, Hysteria, Barley & Hops, and Atlas. In part this is a precursor of what is to come in the form of collaborations- notably Atlas, in addition to a host of others already on the calendar.  They have a barrel ageing program in the works using local whiskey barrels from Baltimore Spirits Company.  

Like so many Baltimore breweries of the past, Full Tilt has quickly become part of the fabric of the Govans community. They technically opened in December of 2018 before they were brewing on premises, but they already have a host of regulars who consider Full Tilt this their local neighborhood brewery.  The food offerings are plentiful with Rolling Grill providing food four days a week, a variety of food trucks scattered throughout the week, and a Wendy’s right across the street for the cravings of fast food lovers. The location is ideally situated to serve the residents including Steve Jones of Oliver Brewing fame who stops in often with the whole family to enjoy a brew and a meal. This truly is a family friendly place where children are welcome, and there is much to entertain them from Shuffle Board to Skee Ball to Galaga. Adults can partake of those games in addition to catching sports on the multiple big screens, or enjoying the talented live bands that play on the weekends. Saturday crowds were treated to the group That’s What She Said, who ably covered an array of familiar songs, and serenaded Nick with Happy Birthday. Yes the grand opening celebration on March 23rd also happened to be Nick Fertig’s 35th Birthday, and what a celebration it was!  

Nick Fertig (bottom right with birthday wrestling belt) celebrating his 35th birthday with friends at the Grand Opening of Full tilt Brewing.

Both Baumiller and Fertig have families to support, Nick and his wife have a beautiful 6 month old son named Max (subconsciously named after Hops the Cat who was formerly known as Max); Dan and his wife have two beautiful children and a third on the way in May. Both fathers want to see their children enter into what is now the family business- brewing. They will have quite a legacy to pass along with a few hard earned lessons along the way.

The Baumiller Family

They faced numerous challenges on their journey to opening the brewery, and when I asked what they would change if they could, I received two answers:

  1. Nothing because it brought us to where we are today.
  2. To aim for a smaller retail space to house the brewery right out of the box instead of thinking a large production brewery was the best option.

For now they are focusing on the fact that they have waited their whole lives for this moment and it has finally arrived. Make no mistake it is hard work, and both are keeping their day jobs while Full Tilt finds its footing. They have made it this far because they never gave up. Under no circumstances would they be deterred from pursuing their dream…

“Right now we are living our dream, and if more people come out to our brewery, it will be that much better!”

Dan Baumiller, co-founder Full Tilt Brewing

As I drove away Queen:  “We are the Champions” was playing on the radio and I found myself thinking yes, these men certainly have paid their dues time after time….. Now I am just happy to be able to give them a hearty congratulations that was so long coming.

Dan Baumiller, Chris Limon, Maureen O’Prey, Nick Fertig

What to look for in the near future:

  • Camden Cream on Nitro
  • Honey Saison
  • Session IPA
  • Barrel Aged Russian Imperial Stout

Sláinte

In the Middle with Erin: A Profile in Distribution

A behind the scenes look at the middle tier with Legend Erin Tyler.

Perhaps too often I profile only one part of the brewing industry- the breweries. On Saturday I was afforded the opportunity to sit down with Erin Tyler, General Manager of Legends Limited Distributing to examine the ‘middle tier’ of the industry while enjoying a beer at Mahaffey’s.  Erin got her start in the industry on the retail side working in restaurants. In 2005 she made the transition to the middle tier at Legends Limited.  A naturally gregarious person that enjoys interacting with people, sales married perfectly with her background in craft beer, wine and spirits. 

Legends Limited was founded by Pat and Sherri Casey in 1994 when they became frustrated by the lack of reputable distributors for their import alcoholic beverage brands. Yes, to clarify Legends started because of imports- not because of craft as it hadn’t really taken off at the time. Craft would soon follow. They opened in the Natty Boh tower at the same time Brimstone Brewing was in residence. When Erin began at Legends they were extremely small- only nine employees. With an unprecedented thirst for knowledge and ever inquisitive, Erin absorbed everything she could from her accounts and the specialists behind the bar/counter like Casey at Max’s Taphouse, Robert from State Line, and Randy from Whole Foods. This was invaluable and helped catapult Erin up the ranks at Legends. As she learned everything she could to maximize her potential, Pat and Sherri Casey sold Legends to a larger family of distributors in 2009, Sheehan Family Companies, a distribution company founded in 1898. This coincided with the rapid proliferation in craft breweries across the country and shifted the focus to specializing in craft and imports. Legends never distributed macro products like Budweiser, remaining dedicated to the craft/import side, and this continued under the new ownership.

Today Legends has eighty five employees, and distributes over forty craft beer brands. They landed five Maryland breweries including Union, RaR, Manor Hill, Oliver Brewing, and Burley Oak. As Erin noted- they are not brand collectors but work specifically with suppliers that fit well with their portfolio. The approach is not to sign breweries unless they can market and place the products with a full devotion of resources. In fact Erin made her opinion quite clear:

“New breweries should self-distribute to learn the ins and outs of distribution, before signing with a distributor.”

Sage advice, and unexpected from the distribution side- but that is what sets Legends apart from other distributors. Their territory covers all of Maryland and Washington D.C.  In 2018 they added 20,000 sf of warehouse space to bring the total to 70, 000 sf of temperature controlled warehouse, complete with cold boxes for all kegs.  This is one of the most critical components for breweries when it comes to choosing a distributor- temperature control to maintain the freshness and quality of the beer. Along with that they hired a new warehouse manager and operations team to change the layout and maximize space and efficiency. Legends is truly a ‘partner’ with their suppliers as they co-op everything: printing (they have an in-house printer), tap handles, POS, glasses, etc. Erin’s sales team is extremely well trained and highly respected for their craft beer/wine/spirits knowledge. This is one of the reasons the relationships Legends maintains with their suppliers is so strong, and why there is little turn over in her sales team. In addition, the company benefits are numerous and generous, from the health insurance to the tuition reimbursement, to the sixteen paid hours of leave for volunteer activities. This is an family-oriented operation, and that is exactly how Erin describes her team- a family, and one she is extremely reluctant to ever consider leaving.

Erin is content at Legends, enjoying the challenges brought on a daily basis from trucks breaking down to beer not coming in when a big event is on tap. She never asks her team to do anything she herself would not do, which has her doing a bit of everything- and she revels in this. There is always quite a lot happening, but she never lets her team lose focus- they need to collaborate and work together to make sure that at the end of the day the customers and suppliers are happy. This is the true end game of the middle tier, and Legends has mastered this. The quality of her team is a large part of the success, but so is consumer education (which her team engages in regularly), continuing education for her employees to learn about new products (and the push to work with the growing population of craft distilleries), and a willingness to adapt their models to the ever-changing climate- whether that be changes in consumer buying or changes in legislation. When queried about the slate of proposed alcoholic beverage bills on the table in the legislature her answer was simple- we have adapted before and will do so again whatever may come.

The recent host of craft breweries that have sold to AB-InBev and Constellation, has required a bit of flexibility on Legend’s part to navigate these uncharted waters. A sale of rare, premium spirits a few years ago required an IT intervention to add the extra digit (five instead of four) in the cost line to log the product in the system. No matter the challenges Legends adapts and one thing remains immovable: they strictly adhere to guidelines governing industry practices, and all reps are extremely well versed in each facet. Erin is very proud of this and this is why they have such a stellar reputation in the craft industry. In addition to this being policy- they are experts at understanding the products, retail spaces, availability of shelf space and refrigeration, and the market.  They do their homework.

This is really the story of Erin and of Legends and how the services they provide cannot be replicated. Whether it be a draft technician- a trade skill that so many people don’t know or utilize anymore, the Micromatic and other industry training classes employees participate in regularly, the BJCP manual used to train all salespeople, or the fact that they consider their most valuable assets at to be human capital…this is a one of a kind operation. Erin Tyler is also one of a kind. She is the only certified cicerone at her company, although the parent company has a master cicerone on staff, and provides funding for employees to complete cicerone certification.

Erin is also one of the very few women in the country heading a distribution house.  She states that she has encountered very little pushback, and her breadth of knowledge allays any concerns a supplier or retail establishment could drum up. Her reputation precedes her. She does acknowledge that things might have been different if she had signed with a macro distributor. The different establishments she would have interacted with might have tipped the balance in a less than favorable way for her and her career.  Erin sees more diversity in the industry now than ever before, and predicts an expanded presence in all tiers. She actively works to bring women in contact with craft beer as a co-founder of the Baltimore Beer Babes, and has helped introduce consumers from all backgrounds to the wonders of craft beverages. This is the industry, the craft industry (whether beer, wine or spirits) and it is her favorite part of the job, working with people- because as a whole they are really good people. This is also where she reminds me that she met her best friend Alice Kistner, owner of Mahaffey’s because of this industry. Years ago when Erin was just a sales rep and Mahaffey’s was one of her clients (when Wayne still owned it) Alice walked in to apply for a job. That was at the beginning of a wonderful and lifelong friendship that has continued to solidify to this day, and even includes annual tropical vacations.

Alice Kistner and Erin Tyler at Mahaffey’s

What does the future hold for Erin and Legends? Personally, she will finish the MBA she has been pursuing at University of Baltimore, and travel. Travelling affords time to completely detach (no cell service) and immerse herself in something entirely new. Croatia was restorative, and stunningly beautiful, while Estonia revealed a burgeoning craft brewing world filled with unexpected and delicious IPA’s. Kosovo, Macedonia, and Albania are next on the itinerary. As for Legends? The focus will shift to a very proactive approach since the last few years have been reactive with the growth of the market. Spending time on strategic/long term planning is priority as Erin wants Legends to be the best specialty beverage distributor in the state in five years. Erin also wants to be the person behind the great breakthrough in craft beer distribution…stay tuned. One thing is certain, she is not leaving Legends:

“I can’t imagine doing anything else- they are my family!”

They are very lucky to have her. Unfailingly Erin operates in the best interest of her suppliers the way she operates in the best interests of her employees, reminding me- “without them where would we be?” I would add to that…without Erin where would Legends be? There is no question they are far better positioned because of her, as are all of their partners from suppliers to retail shops.

After nearly three hours spent on the intricacies of the business, Erin left me with a few golden nuggets to get excited about;

  1. Union Craft Brewing’s release of a new year round IPA- Divine (the name suits it perfectly)
  2. Firestone Walker’s release of Rosalee
  3. Oskar Blues Guns n’ Rosés Ale
  4. Better Wine Company Nitro Rosé in cans

They all sound intriguing! So put on a little David Bowie, or just watch Labyrinth and take a sip of that delightful craft beverage and be grateful Erin and Legends are here in Maryland to deliver it to you- always fresh!

Sláinte

Mark Burchick: Oyster Stout film premier

The Local Oyster Stout Premieres Online

Baltimore, MD (January 9th, 2019)—The Local Oyster Stout, an 8-minute short documentary about the collaboration between a brewery, an oyster farm, and a shucker that led to Maryland’s first farm-to-table oyster stout beer, will premiere Monday, January 14th, 2019, at 9 am EST at the following link: https://vimeo.com/310463755

The short film chronicles the historical pairing of oysters and stouts, specifically through photographs and advertising from the Guinness Brewery’s Storehouse archives, before turning its attention to a collaborative approach to the oyster stout beer style taking place in Baltimore, MD.

Brewed by Waverly Brewing Company, in collaboration with True Chesapeake Oyster Company and The Local Oyster restaurant, the Local Oyster Stout is Maryland’s first beer to source its oysters entirely from within the state, a fact recognized by Sen. Ben Cardin on Opening Day for the Baltimore Orioles in 2016.[1]

Such practices chart a future for sustainability in the Chesapeake Bay through the promotion of ethical aquaculture actively contributing to the health of the watershed, alongside innovative strategies to bring small businesses together.

Directed and produced by Sincerely Visual, a video collective of Baltimore filmmakers Mark Burchick, Jena Richardson, and Kyle Deitz, The Local Oyster Stout premiered at the Life Sciences Film Festival in the Czech Republic, followed by an Opening Night Screening for the Water Docs Film Festival in Toronto, Canada, regional recognition at the Philadelphia Environmental Film Festival and Chesapeake Film Festival, and which concluded its festival run at the British Documentary Film Festival in London, England this past December.

“The Local Oyster Stout hopes to bridge our passion for life on the water and drinking craft beer into a captivating story to share with those who care about the environment,” says Mark Burchick, co-director on the film. “We couldn’t have made this film without that a-ha moment, hanging out at Waverly Brewing Company, looking up at the chalkboard, and seeing a beer with live oysters in it! We had to tell its story.”

***

Mark Burchick is a freelance filmmaker, owner of Sincerely Visual, and Multimedia Technician for Towson University. Not only did he shuck his first oyster during the making of this film, but he also had to visit his first emergency room after burying the shucking knife into his left hand.

Jena Richardson is a Baltimore-based filmmaker currently studying for her MFA at Vermont College of Fine Arts, an artist-in-residence at Towson University, and a self-professed foodie. Her work has taken her from the sets of award winning television and films all the way to the Obama White House. Her previous film “Dear Country,” which covered the historic Women’s March of 2017, was recognized in film festivals at home and internationally.  

[1] https://www.brewersassociation.org/current-issues/u-s-senator-cardin-celebrates-new-beer-release-local-brewery/

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